The Dunes in the Morning

Wednesday, May 11th - - The temperature didn't get as low as I had feared it might but it was a blustery 40 degrees when I awoke at 6:30 this morning and saw heavy clouds hovering over the area. The forecast was for a 60% chance of rain. With the cold and gloomy prospects for the weather, I decided to move on with the hope that one day I will return. Off in the far distance, to the southwest in the valley beyond The Dunes, there was sunshine. Some scattered clouds too, but not like the gray clouds overhead.





The Dunes are held captive by the Sangre de Christo Mountains. The campground is to the right of where the dunes drop off (just right of the center of the photo). The sun was coming over the mountain on the right and maybe it would have burned off the clouds and fog, but then again maybe not.





The sun came through the clouds briefly on my way out of the park. I love how the light moves over The Dunes.





A closer look, half in light and half in shadow.



The shape of The Dunes mimic the peaks of the mountains behind them.



To my amazement and delight, this image brings it all together... the light, The Dunes, the mountains, the clouds, the moment. There for an instant. Then it was gone. I stood in awe as the sun rolled over the dunes. It was incredible to watch.

Dynafit's TLT 5 Boot?

Dynafit's Dy.N.A race boot--old 950g and below, the new Evo @ sub 700g / 24.7oz.!The lightest alpine ice boot I use is aLa Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX @ 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g









Photo from Wildsnow http://www.wildsnow.com/4256/dynafit-evo-backcountry-skiing-boot/





photo courtesy of Jared @ http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/











And yes, they are climbing in Dynafit boots...the upper pair in this picture is the Dy.N.A.and the lightest commercial ski boot in the world.















I saw these boots at OR in Jan of . And choked on the $750 and $1000 retail.Let alone the $1500 retail for the race boots. But a couple of months in the alps and skiing a lot with a pair of the newest BD Primes (retail is $570.00) makes the obvious advantages of a boot you can climb and ski in exceptionally attractive. At that point two pair of boots (adding up tothe $1000/1500 range) seems less attractive.

I've never been a big fan of AT boots for technical climbing. Too heavy and too bulky let alone the other major disadvantages like they generally sucked as real ski boots as well.



I am slow to the party but have been playing with the TLT5 Mountain, in the both the TF-X and the surprising TF versionand the TLT 5 Peformance. A more detailedreview coming asap.



Until then think....skiing and climbing in ONE pair ofboots when it is beneficial.



La Sportiva Spantik 3#.05oz / 1362g

La Sportiva Batura 1st gen. 2#7oz / 1106g

La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 1205g



Scarpa Phantom Guide new model 2#7.5oz / 1120g

Scarpa Phantom 6000 new model 2#10oz / 1190g



TLT 5 Mountain TF 42.5oz./ 1200g (no tongue) 1290g with

TLT 5 Mountain TFX 48oz/1360g - 50.5/1440g



Black Diamond Prime 28.5 mono 62.5oz/1720 (Palau liner dropped 100g)





TLT 5 Performance TF 42.5oz./ 1200g (no tongue) which is a stiffer boot than the Prime which hasa overlapping tongue. Or 1290g with the tongue.



No compromise ski boots (REALLY, as all threeskis better than the Prime) and a decent (not perfect mind you but decent) ice climbing boot at the same weightbut warmer than apair of Nepal Evos! AT boots will "likely" never completely replace climbing boots but there is someamazing technology here that could be used to create a better climbing boot that also skis exceptionally well.



I have thought for a while now that a Spantik with a Dynafit binding system in them would be a godsend. Now I am thinking with a little tweaking on the TLT design and we might well have a better all around climbing boot.



More details and how they ski and most importantly CLIMB coming asap. I'd love to hear from anyone intentionally climbing technical ground in the Dynafits and your experience, pros and cons.





Photo courtesy of Colin Haleyhttp://colinhaley.blogspot.com/











Photo courtesy of Andy Sherpa http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/

If theseboots interest you...take a look around to see what theInternet pricing currently is. You might well be surprised and most retailers will match pricing.

Cactus Fruit

I have posted several photos of the red claret cup cactus that I have in a big pot in my yard. This year it put on some nice fruit or seed pods. I am hoping they ripen so I can collect the seed and to try to grow some from the seed.

La Sportiva's Batura

Sportiva's Batura came on the market 3 seasons ago. In some ways it is an old answer to an old question. But now seemingly a new technology for the alpine climber.



In the 1970's Peter Carman in Jackson Hole came up with a new way to make single boots warmer, the "Super Gator". Great Pacific Iron Works (a combo company of what was or would be Chouinard Equipment and Patagonia) eventually sold the Super Gator on a broader scale.















So adding a short "Super Gator" to a single boot is not a new idea. Making it a integral part of the boot is fairly new. Scarpa's Phantom Lite Series of Boots and the Kayland 6000 are other boots using similar technology. One of the biggest advantages to a Super Gator on the old leather boots is you had some serious weather protection but that the protection also allowed your boots to breath. For the most part you could keep your leather boots dry and warm in some pretty nasty weather. The other advantage is that you gained an additional layer of insulation on your lower legs helping to keep your feet warm.



The La Sportive Batura and similar boots like it are generally a fabric layered single boot underneath a bit of insulation and a water resistant or in some cases water proof outer shell. With the Batura I find that the boot does not breath well enough to warrant its use on multi day cold weather trips. It is certainly warm enough for use in the Canadian Rockies in winter but my feet get wet from perspiration and then the boots get damp. They just don't breath well for me. I have taken to adding a good amount of Mitchum's anti-perspirant to keep my sox and feet more dry. A VBL sox would be a better answer. The real problem on over night trips in cold weather is the boots get wet and they are just too hard to get dried out on a multi day trip. Like impossible if you need to keep moving of a couple of days. It becomes a perfect situation to get cold injury.



The Batura was designed to be a cold weather technical boot.











La Sportiva sez:

BATURA

The ultimate mountain boot for high elevation alpinism, winter mountaineering and ice climbing



This six layer synthetic boot has an integrated highly water resistant gaiter that opens with a Riri Storm® zipper for excellent water resistant warmth. The inner boot uses thermally expanded PE foam and a polyamide layer for warmth. The shock absorbing PU midsole makes these boots comfortable on long approaches and the 8-9mm TPU midsole stiffener accepts automatic crampons.



WEIGHT: 34.67 oz • 983 g LAST: Nepal CONSTRUCTION: Board Lasted GAITER: Elastic Cordura/ Schoeller® -Dynamic™ with water repellant membrane/ Vibram® rubber rand/ Elastic nylon with impermeable insulating layer/ Riri Storm® zipper UPPER: High tenacity nylon/ Insulated anti-dragging felt/ Insulated PE/ Insulating aluminum layer LINING: Polyamide Thermic layer/ Mesh INSOLE: Insulating Ibi-Thermo 9mm MIDSOLE: 8-9mm TPU/ PU Inserts/ SBR Aircushion SOLE: 8-9mm TPU/ PU Inserts/ SBR Aircushion





Here is what I know of the Batura from my own use over 3 seasons and not all of it is good. Let me make some comparisons to the other Sportiva boots I currently climb in. All to be reviewed at some point in the future. (Trango Extreme GTX Evo, Nepal Evo, Ice Evo, Prime, Batura, Spantik, Baruntse)



The Batura is the softest cuffed boot in the line imo. I have a 11.5 size foot and there is virtually no ankle support in the Batura. Even the Trango Evo Extreme offers marginally better ankle support. And that tiny bit of extra support makes a difference in my calves on steep endurance ice or moderate alpine ice. I start looking for any place to get off your calves and French technique with a soft ankle boot. The Batura is warm enough, but not a lot, if any warmer than the superb Nepal Evo. Only the gator adds enough protection to put the Batura in the same category for warmth as the Nepal Evo. Covered laces on the Batura keeps the boot clean of snow and that helps add some warmth a bit as well.



The ankle support is marginal for ice climbing imo. (this is boot size specific I think) The same soft ankle makes modern mixed really fun though. A board stiff sole with a bit of rocker makes walking just OK. I use the boot specifically for both long approaches, and good mixed routes here in the Cascades and on long, one day, Canadian alpine climbs. But even walking I find the rigid mid sole and cheap, lwt insole extremely uncomfortable with my feet cramping by the end of the day walking out from climbs.



The two eyelets that lace the upper cuff are marginal at best for heel hold down and the cuff is cut so big that I am forced to use the Velcro Nepal Evo tongue liner to get the ankle tight enough to offer what little support that is there. Admittedly l have the second skinniest ankles in world. 1st place would likely go to a 6 year old girl. But it would be close. I would have preferred three sets of lace hooks on the upper cuff and a stiffer material to make the cuff more rigid as well. And if we are going there how about just making the upper more supportive?



Better yet how about a Nepal Evo version of the "Batura"?

Then a lot of us could stop wishing.



I have not had any durability issues with the zipper or the gator. But others have. That was recently changed by using a new and better zipper that is water proof and black in color. It is an inline change for the better. I love the Batura's last which is the main reason i ma still using this boot. The last feels like it has a big toe box area. So you have room to spread and wiggle your toes to keep up the circulation on cold belays. Best of the bunch between Trango and Nepal.



I have friends that climb way more every winter than I do and simply loves this boot for everything. They generally have size 9 and under feet. The smaller the feet the more the owners seem to like the boot. Others have found the multi day "wet boot" issue disappointing and the broken zippers and ripped gator unacceptable. But the idea is sound. Scarpa has the enviable reputation of a more durable boot. Many of the original La Sportive Batura users have simple changed brands. I have yet to see any real complaints on the Phantoms. And now Scarpa has a two new Phantoms upping the game one more time.



Bottom line?



Even with the lack of ankle support and comfort on long hikes for a stiff soled technical boot the Batura is my go to boot for the long day trips in the Cascades. I like not having to worry about a gaiter, they climb hard mixed really well, steep ice reasonably so and they are certainly warm enough for the first 36 hrs as long as they are always on your feet. Easiest boot to walk in I own.

Just buy a better insole than what they ship with.



Would I buy another pair? Maybe. But I'll be looking at Scarpa Phantom Guide first.

Too bad as the Batura with a better, more supportive upper and now the better TIZIP water proof and more durable zipper it could be one of the best, single, alpine ice boots available.



65 degree alpine snice on Pinapple Express, Cascades early Jan '09. And me looking for some calf relief!

Skiing mount position question?

Obviously I have been fixated on skiing this spring.



For all the skiers out there riddle me this?



Skiing steeps in a controlled manner with jump turns or pedal hop turns you will generally end up side slipping some or a lot depending on snow conditions.



One of the reasons most want a stable ski there that isn'twildly side cut. And more importantly I suspect most everyone will want a "balanced" ski mount. By that I mean a ski that you can stand on in a balanced ski position and side slip with good/great edge control and not have the ski go back- ward or forward but simply straight down the fall line with very little or zero effort.












Sure, good skiers can over come a poorly mounted ski. Either mounted too far forward (stand up or if bad enough sit back) or too far back (lean forward or geton the front of your boots) and recover on every turn to a position that makes the ski neutral.



Might even be skiers out there that never use the ski in that manner or simply don't care because they have other priorities on their own mounts. Landing BIG air might be a reason for a forward mount and more ski behind you. I don't know the answer on thatone, just guessing by some of the skis I have seen intended for such antics.



In this instance I am talking off piste, steep skiing. But suspect at least for me, all this transfers to every snowcondition and every ski I want to use. But, I am firmly convinced that many skis make it or break it in retail sales and reviews because the damn mid sole mounting marks are off. Some times way off.



Sometimes the answers can bea lot more simplethan one mightfirst suspect.



Add in the additional ramp angle of some bindings and or the boots you are using and things can get "sideways" pretty damnfast. May be things are never really all that simple? Care to comment?

Clouds and Smokey Sun

Took this one 2 evenings ago. The clouds give it a nice look even with all the smoke.

Summer OR...

The journey began today. I don't hope for much from Summer OR and alpine climbing/winter climbing. But I usually get a few surprises.



One of the coolest things from the outdoor demo were a slick little emergency knife. Chops 11mm rope and any webbing with ease. First time I've seen a knife I'd actually take climbing. And trust me I've seen a few. Slick.......and super easy to carry. Cutting winter rap tat just got easier. Easy enough to take one trad climbing mid summer.






Cord cut at the show this morning in just an hour or two!

It is a awesome piece of kit for what we do in the mtns.




http://eezycut.com/



More to come on this little guy.



For the gadget/handyman guys out there some "silly putty" that hardens into shape and stays flexible

Clothing and pack repairs..cracked water bottles...or a pair of boots that need a field fix?



http://sugru.com/



This stuff might well be the chit we need.



More to come. As I said slim pickings at Summer OR but some cool ideas I'll use summer and winter.



These are good as well :)



www.actionwipes.com



Tomorrow I'll tour the hard goods and see what is new.

Sunshine! and Panorama Point Snow Pit

Howdy Everybody!

The sun is out and the temperatures are soaring: 49 at Paradise today! Come out and ski in your shorts.



This week's snow pit was dug just below the bathrooms at Panorama Point. Except for the surface, the top 100 cm of snowcontains6 layers that are all the same hardness and temperature and a mixture of rain crust, ice crust, and rounds. There was about 5 cm of heavy snow on top of a rain crust as of yesterday afternoon. By noon today there was a good 5 cm of slush on top.



Stabililty tests for the snow pit were as follows:

ECTX

CTN

STH @ (15cm) Q2



The weekend forecast shows a drop in the freezing level (finally) and somesnow headed our way!

Two Bridges

It is exciting to see new things happening in an old city, especially when these developments change the dynamic of the landscape completely. The Peace BridgeinDerry/Londonderryis so named for connecting different parts of the city that have historically been divided due to the religious and political conflicts that have plagued Northern Ireland in years past. And the fact that it is a car-free bridge for walking and cycling adds an additional layer of symbolism: Unlike motorists, the pedestrians and cyclists crossing are unshielded by anonymity. It is the ultimate gesture of mutual trust and connectedness.Along the river bank, a new bicycle path is being built that will link this bridge to another further down the river for an even greater sense of unity.






I have never been to Derry prior to the construction of the new bridge. But as a first time visitor I cannot imagine it not being there.Not only do the modern shapes of the contemporary structure harmonise with the historical buildings in the background (from some vantage points, the bridge even appears to "hug" the old city center), but its usefulness and influence on local culture were apparent.






People walking and riding their bikes, some in a hurry and others strolling with newspaper in hand while enjoying the view - the city feels alive and my impression is that this liveliness is recent.Walking through the city center early on a Sunday morning, my impression was that the city was waking up in more ways than one.




Being in Derry, I truly felt it as a living organism in the process of transition. The city wants to be vibrant, it is on the verge of it. The air is electric with change and potential. It is an exciting place to be while this development is happening.





As a funny contrast to the Peace Bridge in Derry, I had earlier visited theCarrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge on the Antrim coast. In decades past a precarious bridge built forfor local fishermen to crossfrom a tiny rocky island to the mainland, it is now a tourist attraction.For a fee of£5.60 you can cross the bridge, circle the island and come back.






The tug of war between this being a tourist attraction for which an admission fee is charged, while still being part of nature and therefore inherently dangerous, is interesting to observe.






Not all who attempt to cross the bridge are able to, as it sways and feels rather unstable. And so in a sense it is also a test of courage - accentuating differences between those who attempt to cross it. Some grasp the rails in a panic, others dance across mockingly. I am told that once the coast guard had to be called because a tourist had a panic attack on the other side of the bridge and could not cross back.









Most visitors get to the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge in a car. There is a huge car park by the road, next to it a tea house. From there a scenic path leads down to the bridge itself. The path is maybe a 15-20 minute walk, downhill, with beautiful views throughout. I had gone there in late afternoon and the last group of tourists was still about. Walking down the path, one woman said to her husband "My God, why couldn't they make this thing closer to the parking lot? This is ridiculous!"




That is my story of the two bridges.

Gold Creek Christmas ..

I took the skinny skis up to Gold Creek for a short Christmas tour. Conditions were pretty good for the Nordic skis with lots of compacted snow on the road from snowshoers.

The road

It was cloudy and warm, and outside the track, the snow was wet and sticky clogging up the scales on my skis. I wanted to be back before Jennifer woke up, so I only went a few miles in. Once the trail left the road it climbed slightly and got more twisty with little ups and downs. This wasn't the greatest terrain for the skinny skis. Just before a clearing I took my skis off and hiked up to the clearing to check it out. Visibility was poor with low cloud cover. I hiked back to my skis and proceeded to head out. I avoided a downhill section in the track by cutting through the woods and eventually regained the track.

Once back on the road I checked out a small pond and skied over to Gold Creek to check it out. Wild tear drop icicles on a log over the creek:



Then a deep snow trek back to the road where the skis were more like snowshoes. Once back on the road it was a quick ski out to the car.

Gold Creek

This was a pleasant jaunt for a Christmas tour. The weather was nice enough and I got some exercise. The only complaint I would make is that there were too many unleashed dogs about.

She did it with Love

My mother holding her firstborn child, Charles Douglas "Doug" Wiseman. Two months shy of her birthday, Mom was not quite 19 years old when Doug was born in March 1947. In the next two years, two more children would be born, me and Jack Lynn. Four and a half years after Jack was born, my sister Teresa Jane arrived on the scene.

The pictures below were taken on Easter Sunday in 1955 at grandma's house in Auburn. Jack's coat is too big, Doug's is too small. I wore that coat for more years than I care to remember. Terry was a handful. Mom was a stay-at-home-mom. Of course, back in the 50s that's what moms did. When Terry started school, Mom got a job outside the home and things changed. That's life. Deal with it and move on. She wasn't the "perfect" mother, like Donna Reed or Harriet Nelson, but she did the best that she could with what she knew. She did it with love. Thanks Mom.

Contributed to the 1st Edition of the Smile for the Camera Carnival.

Beal Unicore

The new "Gully" from Beal is a 7.3 rated double and twin rope with Unicore construction @ 36g/m




available Jan/Feb 2014
















http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwtbKe4Vfag&list=PLEB14971E3A7B76D4